As I put a lot of stuff out here, it’s always interesting to hear when someone has taken one of my designs and put his or her own spin on it. As outlined in the first post on the “wooden warrior,” my build was actually a spin on a knife holder by the creator of ESTLCAM, so when southeastern Michigan resident Ryan Laytart contacted me to say he’d made his own using non-CNC tools, I was naturally quite interested.
His version, actually “versions,” since he made two of these dart holders for a Star Wars marathon party, were made out of 1×6 pine for the warriors, and 1/4 inch plywood (like the original) for the base and shields. Unlike the original, besides using 1×6 pine, they are held together with screws instead of glue. Also the two shields are different, and darts rest in a notch cut inside the upward facing arm.
It took Laytart about 2 1/2 hours to complete these guys (board setup is shown here in time lapse format), which is probably a lot less time than it took me to draw and set everything up on my CNC. If you’ve made some version of a project I’ve done here, I’d love to hear about it. Please get in touch through the comments or via Twitter: @JeremySCook!
So now that I have kids, one who can walk around quite well, I needed to procure a Halloween costume. The easy solution would be to buy something from one of 100 stores, but he mentioned that he wanted a “red robot.” Given my background, I obviously felt the need to instead make one for him.
Fortunately, he mentioned this months ahead of time, so I started keeping cardboard boxes in anticipation of eventually turning them into his desired robot costume. The results can be seen in the video below:
Overall, I was quite happy with how it turned out. My son loved it, and started talking in “beeps,” “boops,” and a robot voice, until he decided that he wanted to go on a slide and needed a better ability to walk around. At $15 or so in paint, and a bunch of recycled cardboard and electronic components that I had around my garage, it wasn’t expensive to build, but I doubt I saved any money over buying something at the store, especially if I was charging for my time. However, it was lots of fun to make, and it seemed like other people that we saw liked it as well.
On the other hand, Read more »
In early 2013 I made something called a “Hank Drum,” a sort cheap derivative of the Hang. I’m happy to note that reader Gary Van Arkel decided to not only build one of these drums based on my plans, but tuned it to a D Minor Pentatonic Scale, and shared the dimensions via a comment. After a short email exchange, he even provided me with pictures, including the sticks he uses, made with 1 3/8″ rubber balls on 5/16″ dowels. So wtithout further ado, here are the dimensions:
D Minor Pentatonic Scale Tongue dimensions:
- 1 D3 147 2″ 10cm
- 2 F3 175 2″ 9cm
- 3 G3 196 2″ 8.5cm
- 4 A3 220 2″ 8cm
- 5 C4 262 1.5″ 7.5cm
- 6 D4 294 1.5″ 7cm
- 7 F4 349 1.5″ 6.5cm
- 8 A4 440 1.5″ 5.5cm
More Build Details:
- Cylinder used was Australian 4.5Kg gas cylinder.
- Reduced inner circle circumference to 3.5″ and outer circle circumference to 5.5.″
- Used Masking tape to mark the larger 2″ tongues, and a 1.5″ width business card to mark the smaller tongues.
- Started cuts to 1/8″ holes with .89mm cutting disc which fitted my Ryobi angle grinder.
- Extended cuts with jigsaw and tuned with hand hacksaw blade.
- Tuned to my Tablet from an app named Best Tuner.
Reducing the circumferences seems like one of the most important notes here, as this may help spacing when being played. It should also allow for deeper notes without cutting the sides too much. Just remember, as in the first Hank Drum post, be sure use an empty and never-filled tank!